How To Build A Gaming PC :Build Your Own PC

There's a good chance that, even if you haven't gotten your hands dirty inside of a case, you still have a basic knowledge of the components that go inside. Experienced builders often have their ideal configuration in mind before they choose a case. But even a seasoned pro needs to be sure that everything's going to fit inside the right chassis. And of course, enclosures vary depending on what you want to do with your PC. Home theater systems, all-in-ones, flashy gaming boxes, and business-oriented workstations all have their own requirements.

Traditional cases follow the size categories below. However, more modern designs tend to stray from those well-defined standards in the name of differentiation. Mid-tower designs, for example, are now found in nearly full-tower scale. To make matters more confusing, they can even be referred to as full towers, even if they lack the drive bays inside that used to define the form factor.

Traditional Case Sizes
Type	Full Tower	Mid Tower	Mini Tower	Mini Cube	Desktop
Height	21-24 inches	17-19 inches	12-14 inches	7-9 inches	3-7 inches
Width	6-8 inches	6-8 inches	6-8 inches	8-9 inches	14-17 inches
5.25" bays	4-9	3-6	1-2	1-2	1-3
3.5" internal bays	6-12	2-6	1-2	1-2	2-4
Motherboard Form Factor	ATX, EATX	ATX	microATX	mini-ITX	ATX, microATX
Card slots	Seven	Seven	Four	Two	2-7
Power supply	PS/2 or larger	PS/2	PS/2 or SFX	SFX or TFX	Various

Step 2: Select Your CPU

Processor selection can be summed up in three words: performance, power, and price. Today, enough software relies on multi-core processing that AMD and Intel have all but eliminated single-core products from their product portfolios. Single-threaded workloads are still fairly common at the consumer level, and technologies like Turbo Boost (from Intel) and Turbo Core (from AMD) are designed to accelerate CPUs when they encounter those lighter tasks. The Apple iTunes workload we run is a good example of a single-threaded test.

It’s certainly nice to know that modern operating systems can spread the load of multiple tasks over several cores, and that software developers can break certain tasks into jobs that multi-core processors can handle concurrently. But you're still wondering how many cores you need. If some are good, are more better? Not necessarily. Software isn't optimized to run across an infinite number of execution cores, and the more resources you duplicate on-die, the more complex your processor becomes, drawing more power. As with all things, there's a balance to strike, depending on what you use your PC for. If you're browsing the Web, responding to email, and writing in Word, most modern dual-core CPUs will feel plenty-lively. But once you start transcoding videos for your tablet or editing pictures taken on your DSLR, it gets a lot easier to overwhelm mainstream hardware.

Game developers have been trying to take advantage of multi-core processing for several years, yet we’ve rarely experienced a significant performance increase from having more than four cores. That’s probably why the largest manufacturer of desktop CPUs, Intel, focuses its gaming-oriented message primarily on four-core processors with the latest advancements in per-core and per-clock productivity.

Step 3: Select Your Graphics

General purpose applications, gaming, high-definition (HD) content, and professional 3D modeling all pose unique requirements for the graphics subsystem. Typically, power users spring for discrete cards, which you drop into an open expansion slot on your motherboard. Both Intel and AMD are adding increasingly capable graphics engines to their host processors though, so you might not even need to buy a card if your needs are basic enough.

If that's the case, the information and resources linked on the previous page are good enough to get you armed with a capable CPU. But if you're interested in playing the latest games using high-quality detail settings, mining cryptocurrencies, accelerating video rendering workloads, or building a workstation designed for heavy lifting, add-in graphics plays a big role in your system's performance.As you move away from traditional desktop use cases and toward professional workstations cranking on business-class software, AMD's FirePro and Nvidia's Quadro graphics cards become more apropos, mostly because their drivers are optimized for OpenGL performance and validated extensively with the most notable ISVs. OpenGL is a multi-platform application programming interface that software developers use to render graphics, and it's particularly prevalent in the workstation space. Expect to pay a lot more for correspondingly-tuned cards, even though the GPUs under their heat sinks are exactly the same as what you get from the consumer equivalents. 

Step 4: Select A Motherboard

The motherboard is one of the most critical selections affecting the functionality of any build. So, why didn't we mention it first? Well, choosing your case, processor, and graphics solution first may narrow hundreds of possible models down to just a few best matches.

• What form factor best matches the case you want to use? As seen above, smaller boards can be fit into larger cases, but not vice-versa.
• What interface does your CPU of choice use? Cross-compatibility is severely limited on AMD's sockets (such as AM3 processors in AM3+ motherboards), and Intel's LGA interfaces are exclusive (meaning no cross-compatibility).
• Has the board been approved to work with the processor you picked? In some cases, even if a CPU fits into a particular socket, it may not be supported by a given motherboard's most up-to-date firmware. CPU compatibility lists on each motherboard's website usually refer to specific BIOS versions, and you wouldn't want to end up with a board manufactured three months ago if the BIOS your CPU needs is only two months old.
• How many graphics cards will be installed? Most graphics cards use PCIe x16 slots, and many motherboards appear to have three of them, but the third slot is often impeded in some technical manner. It's important to read motherboard reviews to find out how this might affect your build.
• "Riser cards" allow case manufacturers to produce thinner cases by turning expansion cards sideways. If the case uses a riser card, does it match the motherboard’s slot?
• Non-graphics expansion cards usually fit into PCIe x8, x4, x1 or legacy PCI slots. How many do you plan to use, and what slot type is required for each? Shorter PCIe cards can be placed in longer PCIe slots, but the reverse isn't usually true. And some motherboards share resources between slots, making it necessary to read the board's specifications table or our motherboard reviews.
• If on-board graphics are used, which display outputs are required? Some motherboards give you VGA, HDMI, DisplayPort, and DVI connectors. Others don't give you any. Most on-board graphics processors support a maximum number of two or three displays, as discussed on the manufacturer's specifications table and in our chipset coverage.

• How many network connections will be used?
• Will eSATA, Thunderbolt, or other specialized interfaces be useful?
• What other external connections might be required?
• How many Serial ATA, mSATA, M.2, or SATA Express drives will be installed?
• Will RAID be required? If so, what modes are needed?
• How many memory modules will be installed?
• Will the board be overclocked?

Step 5: Select Memory

There are a ton of options when it comes to system memory. From data rates to latencies to voltages, the number of combinations can become overwhelming. The easiest answer in the debate of what kit to buy sounds deceptively simple: just buy 1.5-volt DDR3-1600 (PC-12800) modules with CAS 9 timings. All Socket AM3+, FM2+, LGA 1150, and LGA 2011 processors are designed to support at least this memory speed. It's inexpensive as both 4 and 8 GB sticks, and it’s available in both dual- and quad-channel kits.

Yet there are noticeable performance benefits for similarly-priced DDR3-1866 (PC3-14900), particularly if you're using a CPU's on-die graphics engine for gaming. And this speed functions normally, even with processors that are not officially designated to use it (primarily older models or low-energy platforms). And the same easy benefits of DDR3-1866 are even available with most DDR3-2133 kits and modern performance-oriented processors.

Memory faster than DDR3-2133 is usually expensive and not really required. Our tests have shown that DDR3-2400 is barely beneficial, and only in situations where you're leaning on integrated graphics. We've even seen data rates above 2400 MT/s hurt performance as the motherboard attempts to increase stability.

In terms of memory quantity, Tom's Hardware recommends at least 4 GB for the cheapest Web surfing Windows-based systems. Gamers could probably get by with 4 GB, but we’re more comfortable with the 8 GB that has become the norm in high-performance machines. Few applications push memory needs past that point, though users of memory-intensive programs who also multi-task (such as Tom’s Hardware editors) can occasionally find an excuse to install even more. Users who need more than 8 GB usually know their needs in advance, based on experience with a previous machine.

Even those exceptional circumstances only push us to 12 GB, though 16 GB is easier to install in dual-channel mode (via two 8 GB modules). If you’re desperate for an excuse to add even more, installing RAM disk software (which uses some of your system memory as a virtual hard drive) could be your impetus.

Step 6: Select Storage

Choosing internal mass storage once meant deciding between the performance of a solid-state drive (SSD), the capacity of a mechanical hard drive (HDD), or the greater expense of both. But as with system memory, advancements in manufacturing and maturing technology put medium-capacity SSDs within reach for most enthusiasts. We're even seeing 256 GB drives under $100. That SSD might not make processing-bound workloads run faster, but they'll certainly launch quicker, access the data they need more expediently, and respond in a way you simply won't experience with a hard drive.

Of course, you'd still need a handful of high-capacity SSDs if you were planning on storing your photo, movie, and game collections on solid-state storage. Fortunately, adding the expense of a 1 TB disk for under $60 makes the combination of just-right SSD and big hard drive more palatable.

The flash-based capacity you'll want depends on what you do with your PC. A Windows installation rarely exceeds 32 GB without additional programs installed, even after many months of collecting temp files, cookies, and other "temporary" trash. Popularly-used apps like the Office suite and Adobe's Creative Cloud software can easily consume many times that much space, and games regularly eat up more than 10 GB each all on their own. Most of us could squeeze Windows and essential programs into a 128 GB SSD without much effort, but 256 GB drives are the sweet spot if you're adding a few games, too.

Mechanical storage becomes critical once you start piling on years of pictures, music, and movies. DVD and Blu-ray disc images consume up to 8.4 and 50 GB, respectively. If you love to archive video, your capacity needs will expand very fast this way. Game install packages can be even larger than the games themselves, and those of us with less-than-perfect Internet access are reluctant to delete source data, even when installation finishes.

Step 7: Other Remaining Components

 It's possible to complete your build and get to gaming with nothing more than the previous-mentioned components (along with a thumb drive for your operating system). The number of downloadable programs has increased to the point that many of our readers never need an optical drive (CD, DVD, BD-ROM). Cases come with mounting screws and usually include cooling fans. Most retail-boxed CPUs have a heat sink and fan. And a majority of motherboards are bundled with cables.

For other enthusiasts, the ability to run old programs or play media is critical. Overclockers, especially, will immediately toss aside whatever thermal solution their multiplier-unlocked CPU came with in favor of something more effective.

Even the most tight-fisted builder should be able to afford a DVD writer, with typical online prices ranging from $20 to 40 on the latest models of many popular brands. Blu-ray writers are more expensive, though not nearly as bad as they once were. Combo drives with Blu-ray read and DVD write capabilities used to fill the pricing gap, but that market shrank as the gap decreased.

And after this connect all components ,Install Mother Boards , drives , cables and we are done.